Stroll With Stu: Whitby's iconic 199 Steps start point for seven-mile walk to Ruswarp

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In all the years I’ve been writing this column, I’ve never taken you up the most iconic path in Whitby– the 199 Steps.

This seven-mile circular through Ruswarp will be our first ascent.

It takes in some fabulous views, a wildlife sanctuary, an industrial estate (hey I take you to the best places) and might, if you are lucky, include a close encounter with a steam train.

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Make your own way to the 199 Steps and climb up them with hundreds of other people, all battling for their place on the handrails.

Repton locomotive train passes over the bridge at Ruswarp.Repton locomotive train passes over the bridge at Ruswarp.
Repton locomotive train passes over the bridge at Ruswarp.

Remember to count, and if you don’t get to 199, a local by-law states that you have to go back down and start again.

With the exquisite St Mary’s Church away to your left, turn right at the first blue signpost.

The pasture known locally as the Donkey field is on your right (I think I spotted Harry Maguire), and smashing views of the town and Sandsend Bay fill

your eyes beyond the grass.

The Bridge Inn at Ruswarp, near Whitby.The Bridge Inn at Ruswarp, near Whitby.
The Bridge Inn at Ruswarp, near Whitby.

Soon you’ll reach another signpost.

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Go straight on alongside a white cottage and some security fencing where a couple of properties sadly succumbed to gravity several years ago.

A short distance further on, adjacent to flower beds, climb a few steps to turn right along The Ropery, eventually passing St Hilda’s Business Centre.

This is a huge and impressive brick building, originally built in 1793 as a workhouse - somewhere the poor could get basic accommodation in

View of Ruswarp village from the Cinder Track.View of Ruswarp village from the Cinder Track.
View of Ruswarp village from the Cinder Track.

exchange for slogging their puddings out (a fiver says they’ll be back within 20 years).

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Cross over Green Lane onto a track bearing left past a wooden gate.

We’re turning semi-rural now, with the pretty shrubbed valley of Spital Beck to your right.

On reaching a large farm, go straight on through a gate onto a proper country path, leading on to quiet Hawsker Lane where you turn right.

Donkeys in the field next to the 199 Steps leading to Whitby Abbey and St Mary's.Donkeys in the field next to the 199 Steps leading to Whitby Abbey and St Mary's.
Donkeys in the field next to the 199 Steps leading to Whitby Abbey and St Mary's.

The shrill tweets of a number of Skylarks could be the backing track to your one-mile walk on the Tarmac to reach a farm on your right after a couple of caravan parks.

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A green footpath sign points you along a short drive, then it’s through a gate to head straight on through three fields, before curving down and left over a footbridge.

Shortly afterwards, waymarks direct you over a stile, but to avoid a scary walk alongside the stupidly busy A171, go straight on into an industrial estate where you will discover where scampi comes from.

Take the first left, then bear left again and you can eventually scamper over the A171 opposite Aldi.

Very quickly, turn left along the track to Broomfields Farm (no, I don’t know what those big concrete ponds are for either, but the seagulls seem fairly grateful).

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Two hundred yards up the slope, turn left onto a signed footpath.

The River Esk, which runs through Ruswarp, showing the view past the Chainbridge Cafe.The River Esk, which runs through Ruswarp, showing the view past the Chainbridge Cafe.
The River Esk, which runs through Ruswarp, showing the view past the Chainbridge Cafe.

This soon bends right past the various structures that make up the very wonderful Whitby Wildlife Sanctuary.

What a job they do for sick and injured animals for many miles around.

They have just come through a long period of enforced closure following a devastating outbreak of bird flu, and may soon have open days once they are

fully ready.

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In the meantime, please don’t try to get close, just be very grateful (and if you are from Whitby) proud, of the fantastic work done by Alex Farmer and all her volunteers, with Whitby’s name at the forefront.

Turn right at twin stiles, then soon climb steps to turn right along the Cinder Track.

There now follows a mile of woodland that (since trains stopped rattling along here over 50 years ago), is approaching maturity.

The place was alive with birdsong and spring flowers – Celandine, Wild Garlic, Campion, Stitchwort and hosts of Bluebells – and it was just a happy place to be.

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Stunning views start to emerge on your left of Ruswarp, and just ahead of the Larpool Viaduct (go on, toddle off for a look at the views to Whitby), steps lead down at a signpost for the said village.

You’ll drop on to a road which dips, climbs and twists for a mile (no pavement, so take care), to reach Ruzzup (as it’s pronounced).

Cross the river-bridge, and take the signed path right, just ahead of the railway to get back between water and steel to the car park at Whitby Co-op.

Before you head back though, do pop in to the Bridge Inn on your left.

Reliably open all day, with great food, cracking cask ales, a warm welcome and a patio from which you can wave at steam trains, this lovely traditional pub gets a thumbs up from me.

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